[Dulken]

Hej. Jag undrar om det finns nån guide, eller om nån av er kan beskriva hur man rengör/byter vevhusventilationen på en s60 t5, alltså b5234t3.
Måste man riva bort insug mm för att komma åt eller går det ändå?
mvh

[reverend]

Jag gjorde precis det har forra helgen pa min 2006 V70 2.5t.

Det har skrev jag pa ett annat forum;
==================================
Pictures here: http://imgur.com/a/BaR2


The PCV stuff went well and the short of it was to;
-Remove intake hose, airbox, airbox to turbo hose, turbo to intercooler hose and intercooler to ETM hose. Unplug the air sensor and intercooler temp connectors.
-Remove the sparkplug cover.
-Then remove the fan - two 8mm bolts and a quick disconnect power plug.
-Remove front bumper lip and drain a gallon of coolant.

-Disconnect battery! You’ll work around the starter and alternator with metal tools.

Intake manifold removal requires a quarter-inch ratchet with wobbly extensions.
- http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-14 ... 67971.html
That’s mainly for the bottom bolts that are hard to reach. The genius here is that the manifold hangs on them and they do NOT need to be removed.

-Vacuum hoses need to come off.
-The coolant banjo bolt (17mm) is a right pain to get to! Do *not* drop the copper washers!, then unplug the hose from the thermostat housing.
-The connectors at the thermostat housing and on the other side of the injector rail need to be unplugged.
-The torx screw holding the fuel line comes off, then unsnap the clip and gently rock the fuel line out. It’ll dribble a little. Wear glasses and wrap a rag around it.
-Unplug ETM connector.
-Lay the manifold to the side or up and over – whatever works without stressing the wires.

Removing the PCV box is relatively simple from here. Disconnect hoses from it, pull it off, clean the drains into the block.

Now to remove the other end of the large hose going to the PTC and coolant on the side of the head.
-NOTE THE ROUTING of the large hose and the banjo bolt. It took a lot of cursing before I realized that the large hose curves OVER the coolant hose and the banjo bolt attaches pointed straight back towards the driver!
Had I paid attention to that earlier, I would have saved two hours of bolting/unbolting and the impossible to get to banjo bolt and its two washers.

Before it all goes together, it’s easy to clean the PTC resistor and fight to reinsert it into the turbo inlet hose. I cleaned the hoses, surfaces, airbox, blew out the radiator from the back to front, scrubbed the head and block in areas you can’t get to otherwise (around the PCV box etc).

Then the box goes back on, when everything routes and looks good, I snugged down the hose clamps. Just the constant (re)arrangement of them made me very glad I didn’t use the Ötiker clamps.

At this point I picked up a few feet of fuel hose to replace some vacuum hoses under the intake manifold too. They were a bear to get off the old parts so I wouldn’t want to do it later. I pulled off the old hoses, measured out a same-length piece of fuel hose, cut it and installed it.

The intake manifold came off easily, and the bottom bolts can easily be untwisted to remove and put the new intake gasket on. The bolt next to the thermostat housing is VERY close to the housing, but still comes off without removal of the housing. Just ‘force’ it with a little box-end wrench. Put the new gasket on, thread in the lower bolts a little and hang the manifold back on there.
Once it’s resting on the bolts, reattach the hoses and fuel line, then snug the top bolts. Recheck the routing of hoses and ensure there are no kinks, then put the intercooler to ETM hose back in, plug in the connector (if you get “reduced engine performance” in the DIM, recheck this connector!) and then start snugging bolts and reattaching airbox and hoses piece by piece.

Pour the coolant back in, and take a test drive. Once that goes well and you get no lights/warnings, then start bolting back the covers and cosmetics.

I did get a “reduced engine performance” light for a bit (ignition on, didn’t start the engine – that’s a clue!) before I realized that I hadn’t clicked the ETM connector into place. It felt snugly installed but it wasn’t.


All in all, I had no need for it. I guess I was overly worried about gunk in the block. The long commute and frequent oil changes probably really helped keep this engine clean. On the upside, I won’t have to do this ever again AND I have a better understanding of how things look and are situated.

The things that really got me were the banjo bolts, orientation of the head-mounted banjo bolt and the routing of the large vacuum hose to the PTC.
I would say it took me two solid days of work. I’m a slow worker, easily distracted, and get sidetracked with washing hoses and covers and stuff.
If I needed to do it again and was pressed for time, I’d set aside a full weekend to account for …whatever… but would fully expect to do it in one day if I started in the morning.

[reverend]

Den har PDF filen hjalpte mig en del med.

Volvo 2.5t PCV replacement.pdf 1.3 MB
https://mega.co.nz/#!SUMBhDwR!BNQpZnY1y ... nX_NHk4HNQ