- Idag, 09:13
#1622112
My aftermarket EGR moves perfectly, both the electric actuator arm that controls the round valve and the vacuum-controlled flap move flawlessly, nothing sticking.
Still, I get P2413. Most likely a clogged EGR cooler, I guess.
I’m also considering the EGR temperature sensor after the EGR valve as the culprit — maybe gunked up — I haven’t checked it, but I shouldn’t be getting only P2413 then, right?
Maybe the workshop skipped the adaptation, or maybe the ECU relearns by itself?
I checked the behaviour on cold start: the arm driven by the motor (the arm that opens the circular valve further out toward the rest of the exhaust system) jumped between its end positions, in the same rhythm as the uneven idle. After a few minutes it found a position it liked and the idle stabilized.
Any thoughts?
Right now I have no idea where that EGR temp sensor is located — can’t find it…
However, I did check the MAP sensor — it was badly gunked up. I used electronics cleaner on it, but I have no idea if it’s working; I suppose I should check the resistance between the different pins.
I don’t understand what else could be broken in the EGR valve itself — it’s not that complicated: it should be able to open the flap between the chambers inside the valve housing and open/close for the exhaust flow.
EGT sensor is probably the correct name for what I called the EGR temperature sensor — an exhaust gas temperature sensor. Could that cause P2413 if it’s bad?
I’ve read that only VIDA DiCE can perform a proper EGR adaptation after replacement, with various stepwise values, and that it’s a “must” for the codes to disappear. Is this true??
Considering that the electric motor runs the plunger to its end stops for a few minutes, I think the issue is that the ECU is using the old valve’s values, that these weren’t cleared during replacement, and that adaptation wasn’t performed correctly. What does someone who actually knows about this think?
Still, I get P2413. Most likely a clogged EGR cooler, I guess.
I’m also considering the EGR temperature sensor after the EGR valve as the culprit — maybe gunked up — I haven’t checked it, but I shouldn’t be getting only P2413 then, right?
Maybe the workshop skipped the adaptation, or maybe the ECU relearns by itself?
I checked the behaviour on cold start: the arm driven by the motor (the arm that opens the circular valve further out toward the rest of the exhaust system) jumped between its end positions, in the same rhythm as the uneven idle. After a few minutes it found a position it liked and the idle stabilized.
Any thoughts?
Right now I have no idea where that EGR temp sensor is located — can’t find it…
However, I did check the MAP sensor — it was badly gunked up. I used electronics cleaner on it, but I have no idea if it’s working; I suppose I should check the resistance between the different pins.
I don’t understand what else could be broken in the EGR valve itself — it’s not that complicated: it should be able to open the flap between the chambers inside the valve housing and open/close for the exhaust flow.
EGT sensor is probably the correct name for what I called the EGR temperature sensor — an exhaust gas temperature sensor. Could that cause P2413 if it’s bad?
I’ve read that only VIDA DiCE can perform a proper EGR adaptation after replacement, with various stepwise values, and that it’s a “must” for the codes to disappear. Is this true??
Considering that the electric motor runs the plunger to its end stops for a few minutes, I think the issue is that the ECU is using the old valve’s values, that these weren’t cleared during replacement, and that adaptation wasn’t performed correctly. What does someone who actually knows about this think?
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