Volvo S60, S80, V70N (00-08), XC70 (00-08), XC90 (03-14) relaterade ämnen OBS! vid motorproblem försök att ange vad du har för motor i bilen...

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av Makrohn
#1419026
Hi!

Couple of weeks ago I found out my cabin heating system did not work properly. I couldnt get more than luke warm heat.
Doing some research, I found that cleaning the tiny air-inlet to the cabin temp sensor would be first stop. In this operation, I managed to damage the thermistor, like many before me have done. I then went on with the "quick-fix" to replace the thermistor. But, unfortunately this did not help either. So, I decided I would replace the heater core and flush the coolant system. But, once again nothing helped. Finally, I drove the car to Bilia, made them do a diagnosis, replaced my cabin filter, read the engine temp and do a calibration of the flaps of the heatingsystem. Nothing better came out of this visit.

What would be next in this matter? Everything else seems to work fine. AC, Parking heater works fine, engine temp OK.

This is what I have done so far;

- Replaced heater core + flushed coolant system
- Replaced Cabin filter
- Replaced thermistor in interior temp sensor

I´m thinking on getting my hands on a used CCM panel, but there are so many different experiences with this. Is it even possible to make a swap? These panels comes in a "million" different versions, but many with the same part no. The only difference I can se is the number of buttons, or the button order.

Anyone?
av MickeM
#1419074
You can not just swap the CCM from another car.
Regardless of partnumber.
It has the wrong configuration. It has to be programmed into your CAN-system.

However you need a CCM from a car with the same CAN-generation, so the year is the Most important.

Did you solder the new resistor yourself?
Do you have solderingexperience?
The legs of the resistor has a protective coating that has to be removed in the soldering-area. Otherwise it does not get electrical connetion.

Can you hear the little fan behind the resistor?
av Makrohn
#1421582
MickeM skrev: sön 20 dec 2020, 10:01 You can not just swap the CCM from another car.
Regardless of partnumber.
It has the wrong configuration. It has to be programmed into your CAN-system.

However you need a CCM from a car with the same CAN-generation, so the year is the Most important.

Did you solder the new resistor yourself?
Do you have solderingexperience?
The legs of the resistor has a protective coating that has to be removed in the soldering-area. Otherwise it does not get electrical connetion.

Can you hear the little fan behind the resistor?

Hi there!

Thanks for answering. I forgot to say you can answer me in Swedish if you prefer that :)

I just got my hands on a CCM from another car but different year. Everything works great actually, with no coding needed. Just plug & Play..... EXCEPT, it is still not warm in my cabin. So, where to go from here?

Feels like I have checked every possible corner.. but of course, I must have missed something.
Användarvisningsbild
av jiha1968
#1421601
Well, it seems like you've been lucky with the CCM ;-)
(thankfully the XC90 is not the most difficult in that case, but anyway...)

Measure cabin temperature sensor, and Evaporator temp. sensor (with VIDA/Dice or equivalent) to confirm that both sensors are OK.
Calibrate CCM flaps (actuators) again because of the new CCM. (VIDA/Dice-Volvo)
Make sure that the actuators/step motors for cabin temp moves flaps/arms normally.
Normal airflow from fan?

Confirm that engine are able to reach normal operating temp, and the temp-needle stands straight up, dead center.
Measure temp at in/outlet hose from heater core. (IR-thermometer, or i worst case an old fashion cooking thermometer)

With hot engine (pressurized cooling system) and with extreme care for your own security (must wear protection for face and hands)
quickly loosen the right (towards cambelt) outlet hose from heater core in engine bay, and reconnect. Refill lost coolant.
(we are trying to blow out some trapped air from heater core)

If the parking heater is able to provide good heat in cabin, but not the engine by itself, then probably the engines water pump is on the next to do list, due to an damaged impeller. (as far as the engine temp are normal or high)

EDIT: Don't forget to pinch off the hose before you disconnect it!
(we want the coolant to flow out through the heater core, not the disconnected hose)
Senast redigerad av 3 jiha1968, redigerad totalt 0 gång.
av Makrohn
#1421604
@jiha1968, Yes, I was quite surprised myself when we hooked it up and absolutely everything worked :-D

Ok, I´ll have to reach out to a dealership to get those things done with VIDA, but you have given me a good list of things to do next.
I´ll be sure to print this list to the mecanic.

I actually measured the temp on the hoses in the engine bay going in through the firewall, about 65 celcius on one and 67 on the other. Does it seem right?
Them temp needle does indeed go straight up and stands like that.
And yes, normal air-flow from the fan itself.

I would mention; if I adjust the fan speed manually, above step-3-4 the air gets slightly colder. So, the lower the speed of the fan, the hotter the air is coming out. But it still is far from where it should be.
Användarvisningsbild
av jiha1968
#1421624
With regards to the Evap. temp sensor, it's supposed to show outside air temp when Fan is on, or a little lower if AirCon is on too. (VIDA/Dice)

The hose temp's are a little bit on the low side, but value depends on measuring equipment and technique.
It would be interesting to know the hose temp at the engine thermostat also, even if it's not very likely that both the thermostat and engine temp sensor should be "off" by the same amount.

You are sure that the heater core is brand new and of good quality?
(some cheap aftermarket heater cores are not as high in efficiency as Volvo/Behr/Mahle,
but they do usually maintain acceptable cabin temp down to about 0 -5'C , but often struggles a little under -10'C)

Hopefully the "quick release" of coolant hose pressure expels some trapped air, and you can enjoy the oncoming winter...
Senast redigerad av 1 jiha1968, redigerad totalt 0 gånger.
av Makrohn
#1421682
@jiha1968, OK thanks, I´ll take note on that regarding the Evap temp sensor.

When I visited the dealership a few weeks ago, he read the coolant fluid (through VIDA)
to have a running temp of about 85 celcius.
He said that was fine, and the thermostat most likely was working as it should.

Regarding the heater core I know it is brand new, however, the brand is "AVA Quality Cooling" and not one of those you mention. After doing some reserach, I see that this core retails for about half the price of a BEHR or MAHLE.
But, it is really possible that this heater core could be THAT bad? In that case, it is a shame it is even being sold.

Ok, I will give the "quick release" a try when I got the proper protective clothing etc.
But to be sure, could you point to me to exactly the correct hose you are referring to? All though I am handy, this is my first Volvo and I need to learn more :)
Användarvisningsbild
av jiha1968
#1421714
The two hoses in the engine bay, at the firewall, which you measured the temp of,
have an twist-ring, or a pull back ring to release the hose coupling from the alu-pipe at the firewall.
It's the hose closest to middle of the car.
(remember that coolant is poisonous, both for you and the nature)

Dependig on engine type, it may be necessary to remove upper engine mount bar to gain access. (big metal bar between the strut-towers)

The difference between a premium heater core and a budget one, is usually (maybe exaggerated) described as "burning hot" for the premium, and "nice and hot" for the budget model.
And some budget models are better than others, but i doubt that it shouldn't be able to make sufficient cabin heat, but not as fast or quite as hot, as the premium.

I guess there are many happy users of the budget models, (they are popular) and if it should be the new heather core that's s the culprit, it's probably due to an single fabrication error.

Hopefully it's just some trapped air, or the Evap. Temp sensor :-)
Användarvisningsbild
av jiha1968
#1421767
NB: don't forget to pinch off the hose before you disconnect it!
(we want the coolant to flow out through the heater core, not the disconnected hose)
You'll need something that emulates this:
Hose Pinch Plier.jpg
Hose Pinch Plier.jpg (18.52 KiB) Visad 846 gånger
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